Tuesday, October 17, 2006

The Burg

The sun bakes us, we breeze through the land of stereotypical Africa. No cars in sight, we're the only one, baby clothes on the line, huts with grass roofs or corrugated sheet metal, I don't think it's called that. and women carrying water in clay jars on their heads. One woman carries a cow hide, a full flat, dried cow hide. It's brown and spotted. The head is still attached, well, parts of it.

The sky clouds over us as we follow the windy road, adorned with potholes, as the sign says, "POTHOLES, NEXT 30 KM." In the distance children are playing in the road. They see us before we see them. Two or three thrown themselves down on the road, knowing from experience that we'll brake for them. As soon as I slow down the car they jump off the ground and come running towards the car, shouting "Sweets, Sweets!" Our fears keep us moving. We've been warned that even the smallest children can be good pickpockets. So perhaps our prejudice too, accelerates us down the road, leaving the children to try again for the next car.

Today is our second day hiking in the Drakensburg Mountains, fondly referred to as "the Burg" and after yesterday's rainout an hour from the trail head, we're thirsty for more. WE climb down the valley and over a small river, and then up a red rocky hillside that will become a slip'n slide on the way down. I'm lagging today, behind the group, and I don't know why. When we get to the crest of the hill, we realize that we may have gone too far.
Our aim was the Bushmen paintings, ancient world heritage rock-art, still visible. Electric charge in the air begins to raise our hair, so we opt to descend and try looking for the caves along the valley/ protect ourselves from a lightning storm.

Eventually we find the caves, and scrape together a hundred and twenty sopping we Rand for a guided tour of the rockpaintings and a history lesson, from the Zulu tour guide. Our hike out includes what might as well have been the magical fairy jungle forest. The moss and ferns were illuminated by the bright gray skies and dripping clouds. Magical. Thanks for reading.

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